PETALING JAYA, Aug 20 — Newly opened in Kota Damansara is Carbon, the latest in what feels like a relentless slew of restaurants that offer seasonal chef-driven tasting menus, usually with a gimmick or two up their sleeves.
It’s the definition of destination dining: The restaurant is surrounded by offices in a semi-industrial area, making for a rather quiet approach at night. Turning back to the food at Carbon: Locally-sourced ingredients and charcoal cooking play a central role, the latter in the form of grilled proteins, or as a component: Burnt onion oil, for example.
The last of these was Wagyu beef tartare served on a potato páve, the latter a classic Thomas Keller preparation that had a viral moment on TikTok a while back. A chawanmushi with prawns, sea snails and little clams followed, which was delicious and emblematic of some Japanese influence that would later crop up again.
Tay later mentioned that before operations began, purees sometimes proved challenging for some of the staff; I couldn’t tell when eating it. It consisted of dried mandarin peel and some fiery peppers, adding a spicy and slightly bitter kick to the final dish.
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