This Small Southern Town Ran on Restaurants. Then Coronavirus Hit

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In Kinston, North Carolina, hospitality is everything. As the public health crisis wreaks havoc on local businesses, we reached out to every restaurant in town and collected stories of fear, hope, and survival.

"You have to realize about Kinston, if you cut eastern North Carolina off and made it its own state, it would be the poorest in the county," Vivian Howard tells me. "Kinston is the Trenton, New Jersey, of the South."

“Shipping is off the daggone chain,” Hargitt tells me over the phone. He’s had to lay off the part-time staff, but hostesses and cashiers turned packers now seal up ribs as fast as ten cooks can turn them out. “We sent out 200 packages on Monday,” he says, adding that orders last week were up 800%, with most of the food touching down in New York via platforms like Goldbelly.

“What motivates me is all the leans the government has on everything I own,” he says. “If i don’t make the payments from the floods, if this restaurant fails, then I don’t have anything. They take everything.”No one in town took a hit like Howard, who laid off 130 employees between three restaurants—including one in Wilmington—presaging the governor's actions by a few days.

Two Mondays ago, she started feeling uneasy. Her Middle Grounds customers are loyal and kept coming to the café to show their support. Meanwhile she was delivering to the hospital and pharmacies and kept encountering people better protected than she was.- Jessy Dawson In-store she may only have a dozen customers a day, but they’re finding dishes with what Pridgen calls “international flair,” including Cuban mojo roasted pork and chicken korma curry pot pies that will feed five or six people for $20.

“They talk about airlines and cruise ships, and that doesn’t hold a gnat’s ass to the restaurant industry.”“There’s more people walking by my front yard now,” she says. That’s a sentiment shared by the Elmores’ partner Chris Moore, with whom they co-own Sugar Hill Pizza and Inside Scoop. His frustration is as much from misinformation about unused ventilators as it is lost income on walk-up orders, as diners opt for biscuits over omelets at a time when every dollar matters.When Joe Hargitt got a call to deliver 200 biscuits to two of the Minges’ PepsiCo plants at 5 o’clock in the morning, he called up George Smith and Steve Lovick, the owner of Lovick’s Cafe, and asked if they wanted the work.

Now there are thirty new customers a day discovering the restaurant through its website, up about 500%, an offset to the losses he anticipates this week as people aren’t expected to return to their offices downtown. He’s grateful for the business Hargitt sends his way, and is finding more of his own, including the staff at Smithfield’s, the local pork-processing plant. “They’re out of control trying to keep up with grocery stores, so the bosses are feeding them.

 

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