Perfectly suited to our times, Start Simple encourages an intuitive approach to cooking

Our cookbook of the week is Start Simple by Lukas Volger, creator of the James Beard Award-winning Jarry magazine. To try a recipe from the book, check out: White bean and carrot burgers, Swiss chard enchiladas in red sauce, and cauliflower and herb salad.

Rather than toss the unsightly stems, I opened Volger’s book and preheated the oven. Twenty-odd minutes later, I had a few straight from the baking sheet. They were tender and satisfyingly salty. The rest I chopped up and added to some leftover brothy beans, which I heaped on top of a slice of rye sourdough toast and drizzled with olive oil. This unassuming enchilada component was just what I needed.

Volger structures Start Simple around 11 core ingredients — including a carton of eggs, hearty greens, crowns of cauliflower or broccoli, a stack of tortillas and beans, canned and dried — all of which keep well in the fridge or larder. In contemplating how to make everyday, vegetable-forward cooking more achievable, he decided to start with his grocery-store essentials.

In highlighting a multitude of options for these familiar ingredients, Volger illustrates ways of embracing a more realistic brand of weeknight cooking. As an experienced cook who has worked in restaurants, food production and media, he has developed a knack for being able to open the fridge, take stock of its contents and create a delicious meal.

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