Can’t tell barolo from barbaresco? Toronto’s soon-to-open Eataly will answer all your Italian food questions

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Eataly Toronto opens in mid-November. Jeremy Freed reports on how, in the age of food delivery apps and meal-prep subscription boxes, Eataly offers a grocery store, restaurant and cultural experience in one

Eataly's 41st location at the Manulife Center on Bloor St. West, will open its doors for food lovers on Nov. 13, 2019.Seventeen years ago, Oscar Farinetti sketched out an idea for a grocery store on a piece of paper. Along the periphery of the simple rectangle were counters for meat, fish, cheese, wine and bread, and strategically peppered through the centre were stations serving freshly-made pizzas, seafood and traditional Italian fare. “Eat Italy” was scrawled along the bottom of the page.

To consider what Farinetti’s simple idea has since become, with locations from Tokyo to Moscow, Las Vegas to – as of Nov. 13th – Toronto, is to gain an appreciation for the appeal of pasta, parmigiano reggiano and olive oil. It also reveals the changing nature of how people in cities around the world want to shop and eat.

Oscar Farinetti, founder of Eataly, is in Toronto for a few weeks to oversee the final phase of construction.Like every other location of Eataly’s growing empire, Toronto’s outpost will combine the best attributes of a high-end Italian grocery store with a piazza’s worth of bars, restaurants and cafes.

All of this seems tailor-made for a certain kind of over-scheduled, culturally savvy urban professional, a customer who will happily spend a little more on groceries in exchange for being able to drink wine while they shop. “One thing they do very well is make the store experience fun,” says Claire I. Tsai, associate professor of marketing at the University of Toronto’s Rotman School of Management.

 

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