It ought to be obvious that Leonardo came from Vinci, yet his birthplace goes almost ignored by Tuscany’s tourist hordes.
The industrial port of Livorno near Florence is unlovely, but the minute we pass beyond its rusting outskirts, green countryside is slashed with canals and rivers, and backed by sawtooth hills. Umbrella pines stand in rows, and farmhouses hunker under terracotta roofs. It’s the elemental Tuscan scenery Leonardo da Vinci would have seen .
But Leonardo took his name from Vinci, and I can see why. It has more presence than Anchiano, on a hill with a dreamy outlook like the one you see over the painted shoulders of his Dreyfus Madonna.If you wanted to create an archetypal Tuscan town, this is what it would look like. Vinci’s terracotta roofs are punctuated by the bell tower of Santa Croce Church, where Leonardo was baptised. Allegedly, at least: we don’t know much about Leonardo at all until he moved to Florence as an adult.
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