The emperor looks ignoble. In its defence, I have not come by appointment, but it’s hard to ignore the tattiness of the moulting bird. I am not complaining – I hadn’t expected to see them during the trip, much less up close and surrounded by other regents.
“I think you book this trip if you’re really interested in Antarctica,” expedition leader Florence Kuypers tells me at one point. “I think the long trip is nice because people really unwind and understand that we can’t plan every moment. If you have a shorter trip, you want to try and squeeze everything in and people can get stressed – if you do a 10-day trip and have bad weather 80 per cent of the time, you’re happy to make any kind of excursion.
Back on board, the service is as slick as anything you’d find in the Caribbean or Mediterranean, and the menus at least as indulgent.
This will not typically happen during these mammoth expedition cruises but we make the most of it on Sims Island with tens of thousands of Adelie penguins, at the little-explored Brownson Islands, and most triumphantly of all, at Captain Scott’s hut at Cape Evans, where the men of his disastrous Terra Nova expedition to the South Pole had lived in unimaginable hardship and misery from 1910-1913.
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