The fashion items that make the leap from popular to 'cult' status

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“From the moment we stocked them they were a sellout; the shape was new, they were comfortable ... Everyone had to have it, from fashion editors to celebrities.”

Jacqueline Fishman still remembers the first pair of Valentino Rockstuds she sold at Miss Louise, the iconic Melbourne shoe emporium her family has owned and operated for more than 50 years.

And not every cult item needs a four-figure price tag. Some, such as the Dinosaur Designs bangle, can be bought for less than $100. The gallery, which is currently exhibiting pieces from the world's largest private collection of cult label Comme des Garcons, holds about 10,000 items in its fashion and textiles collection.

Part of her juggling act is navigating the difference between true style, which is long-lasting, and hype, such as the "logo mania" adopted by many luxury brands. “What happens when a logo is so ubiquitous is that it is no longer about the quality of the item but rather the badge that is placed on it,” Galambos says. “For starters, you are advertising the brand for free. We do not simply sell names and badges, but rather we sell a history and a philosophy.

 

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