Surprisingly hard-to-find, this Italian dish is daggy but glorious

That’s it. That’s the dish. How can you possibly go wrong with three of the tastiest ingredients on the planet, emulsified and mixed into a single plate of food? To understand the provenance of this dish, meanwhile, you have to know that it is very rarely, if ever, referred to as fettuccine alfredo in its birthplace, Italy. There you are far more likely to be served something called “pasta burro e parmigiano”, which really does what it says on the tin: pasta, butter and parmigiano.

The dish we know today was invented in either 1907 or 1908 by Alfredo De Lelio, a Roman chef who is supposed to have added parmigiano to the classic pasta e burro for his wife. De Lelio’s restaurant, Alfredo, and a subsequent spin-off called Il Vero Alfredo, went on to become exceedingly popular with visiting American celebrities, who helped popularise the dish in their home country.), the spin-off that’s still run by the De Lelio family, remain in business.

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