Runaway chicken: Rachel Roddy’s recipe for penne con pollo scappato

A clever, meat-free pasta sauce using soffritto, red wine, plus maybe a smidge of Marmite, to create a deceptively dense flavour

hile today’s recipe is from Tuscany, it is also thanks to a girl who went to my school. She lived outside town, in a big house with both a swimming pool and chickens. I never actually saw the house, or jumped in the pool, but I did hear about the chickens that lived in a cage at the bottom of the garden and laid more eggs than the family could eat.

In the spirit of resourcefulness, and in keeping with the story, you could add the tip of a teaspoon of Marmite to the sauce, too, which, like half an anchovy or a splash of fish sauce, is seasoning of the subterranean sort. Another addition, for flavour and lovely shine, is a knob of butter stirred in at the end of cooking.

Stir in the wine, then, after a few minutes, add the tomato concentrate and red chilli, and stir again. Cook, half-covered with a lid, for 40-50 minutes, until the sauce is dense and richly flavoured – it should not at any point be dry, so add more wine or water if needed. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in boiling salted water and, once it is al dente, drain and save some of the cooking water, or use a slotted spoon or spider to lift it directly from the water. Combine the pasta and sauce, and add the butter and some black pepper. Stir everything together, then divide between bowls, passing round grated parmesan, pecorino or other cheese for those who want it. You could also blend or mash a proportion of the vegetables for a softer consistency.

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