‘On the brink of extinction’: a food historian’s hunt for ingredients vanishing from US plates

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In her new book, Endangered Eating, Sarah Lohman chronicles disappearing foods – and why they need protecting

he American buff goose. Amish deer tongue lettuce. The Nancy Hall sweet potato. The mulefoot hog. When food historian Sarah Lohman stumbled on these fantastical-sounding ingredients in a database of vanishing foods called the, she set off on a journey across the United States to discover more ingredients and traditions that had been abandoned in the annals of history.

In 2016, I reviewed your previous book, Eight Flavors, which argued that American cuisine is constantly expanding to encompass new food traditions. Did your latest research inspire you to question or expand upon that thesis?Of course, in Eight Flavors, I thought about some of these ideas. That book is also concerned with the idea of what we eat and why: this is why we’re eating black pepper, this is where vanilla came from.

I love that feeling when you’re introduced to a different way of noticing. It’s like putting on a new lens.

 

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