am loving these midsummer days in the kitchen. Cooking feels suddenly easier and more relaxed; lunches are often longer, dinner less urgent. I make food that can be eaten hot or warm, that fits in with the slower pace of life. No one will be demanding that you come to the table “now”.
The bowls of preserved artichokes at the deli counter are a wonderful thing to have in the fridge. In our house they may find themselves dipped in tempura batter and then dunked in deep, bubbling oil or else browned on the grill; they are sometimes mashed with lemon and torn basil leaves to give an effortless pasta sauce, or whizzed to a purée to spread on crisp, thick toast.
I am making the most of our short cherry season. One week in a crumble-topped pie, the next cooked with elderflower cordial and anise. This was offered to all with freshly baked orange shortbreads – tiny sugar-encrusted cookies to dunk in the claret-coloured cherry juice. This is a meal to be eaten at ease, just as good cool as straight from the oven. A lunch made for these lazy summer days, a calm and tender moment before the scorching heat of late summer.I use yellow, waxy potatoes for this, but any small potato is fine. Keep the skins on and cut the potatoes into coins that will soak up the olive oil and its seasoning. If you don’t have fennel fronds, use whole thyme sprigs instead.
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