My bad trip – my Spanish was improving, but my refusal to be taken for a ride got me kicked off the bus

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As it sped off, I was euphoric. I had fashioned a complex sentence and hit a nerve with my pointed words. Or had I?

Photograph: Leonardo Costa Farias/Getty ImagesPhotograph: Leonardo Costa Farias/Getty Imagest was 2007 and I was weeks into a solo backpacking trip in South America. By the time I reached Bolivia, my Spanish had improved markedly and so had my resolve not to continue being swindled by local taxi drivers and their ilk who dared exploit my first-worldliness.

The coach was full so I stood up the front with the driver’s assistant, who assured me a seat would become available within half an hour. Sure enough, a passenger soon disembarked and as we took off again, hurtling up the precipitous mountain road, the driver’s assistant asked me for the fare: 100 bolivianos. But the normal price, I protested, was no more than 70 bolivianos. He avoided eye contact, saying if I didn’t want to pay 100, I could get off.

I walked on, with creeping dread, for what felt like 40 days and 40 nights until I saw lights in the distance – a roadside gas station with an adjacent diner. Parked out front were a fleet of overnight coaches, en route to Sucre. Passengers were returning from their dinner breaks and the buses were leaving. I leaped on to the last remaining bus and asked the driver for a seat. “It’s full,” he said. I craned my neck down the aisle and told him I could see two empty seats towards the back.

A couple of uncomfortable hours later, another seatless passenger boarded – a woman in a voluminous skirt who said she often travelled this route. She sat on the floor behind me and showed me how, if we leaned our backs and heads against each other like human chairs, we could get some sleep. Before long she was snoring powerfully in my ear. Every time I managed to drift off, my head would roll off hers, jerk back in a whiplash motion and then slam into an armrest.

 

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