Goodbye cod, hello herring: why putting a different fish on your dish will help the planet

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In the first of a new series, we look at why people reject so much of the bountiful catches from our seas in favour of the same few species, mostly imported – and how to change that

Seafood platter: a display of the fresh catch at the Falmouth fishmonger Pysk, including hake, gurnard, ling, red mullet, megrim and lemon sole. The Gilberts, who run Pysk, know which boats landed all of the fish and shellfish for sale.Seafood platter: a display of the fresh catch at the Falmouth fishmonger Pysk, including hake, gurnard, ling, red mullet, megrim and lemon sole. The Gilberts, who run Pysk, know which boats landed all of the fish and shellfish for sale.

People are looking for cod or salmon when there’s this immaculate fish that’s been caught maybe an hour ago The UK is perhaps unfairly stereotyped as a nation with an unadventurous palate. But where seafood is concerned, that’s backed up by the data. There are more than 300 species in the UK’s coastal waters, and British people eat strikingly little of it.names the big five as cod, haddock, salmon, tuna and prawns, and reckons they make up 80% of fish and seafood eaten in the UK when consumption outside the home, in restaurants and in fish ‘n’ chip shops is included).Giles and Sarah Gilbert at Pysk.

“So the situation we’re in today is that we import a lot of the seafood that we consume, including those ‘big five’ species, and we export most of what we land,” says Luke Harrison, who led the Essex University study. In fact, between 1975 and 2019, the share of British fish consumed by the UK public dropped fromOur palates have also been dulled by how we shop.

In India, another top global producer of fish, tropical waters support a great diversity of species, but in lower quantities. As Divya Karnad, a marine geographer and conservationist at Ashoka University, near Delhi, explains, that means a fisher who catches 100 local fish is likely to have several dozen species in his net.

If we make room for diverse foods on the plate, then we will be getting closer to the goals we aspire to Governments do need to make better decisions about where and what is fished, and how to support fishers to work more sustainably in a difficult industry. However, “that doesn’t mean that we should throw up our hands and say that ‘seafood is bad, it’s all too complicated’,” Gephart says.

In culinary institutes in India, chefs were not being trained with indigenous ingredients – they were learning about French cuisine

 

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