My guiding principle when I’m in an unfamiliar place and I need to get grounded fast is simple.Bakeries, boulangeries, patisserie, pasticceria, konditorei, zacharoplasteio – whatever they are called in each country – are happy places where locals chatter away as they line up to buy their daily bread and impatient children gather for their after-school treats .Some just sell simple baked goods; others display cascades of creamy deliciousness, gateaux as beautifully constructed as buildings.
It’s also Italy’s coffee capital, the home of Illy coffee. The Triestino apparently drink twice as much coffee as other Italians, and the city boasts many gorgeous 19th-century coffee houses. It’s a kind of Vienna on the sea. Although tourists can make it unpleasantly crowded at times, the opulent Demel is the place where Empress Elisabeth bought her candied violets . It’s famous for its “heirloom” cakes, such as marmorgugelhupf, a marble Bundt cake, and the fragilite schaumrolleIf you find the Sacher torte too dry, I suggest trying Demel’s Anna cake – a moist chocolate gateau layered with Paris cream, nougat and orange liqueur. Sublime.
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