At Heavitree Gap in Alice Springs , a mountain range effectively snaps in half. To the gap’s east stretch the East MacDonnell Ranges, while the more popular West MacDonnell Ranges unfurl to the west. They are mountains made familiar to many by their gorges – Ormiston Gorge, Standley Chasm, Simpsons Gap – and the presence of the Larapinta Trail, one of Australia ’s headline multi-day hikes.
Along the river’s largely dry course through Rodna, we pass waterholes that form part of a dog Dreaming story with the souls of dogs from around the country said to come to this place.Rodna’s immense beauty is truly revealed as the track heads down onto the Finke’s stony riverbed and the cliffs of the gorge close in. A deep, green waterhole stretches from cliff to cliff and, beyond it, I can see the back of the famous gorge that, even now as we stand in silence, will be crawling with visitors.
The largest-ever investment in infrastructure by an Aboriginal group in Central Australia, the 8.2-kilometre Yeperenye Trail was constructed by the Eastern Arrernte traditional owners in 2021, connecting Jessie Gap to Emily Gap, the closest gorge to Alice Springs. It’s at about this point, as I approach the gap, that signs of desert life return: a sand goanna scuttling through the bush, dingo scat beside the trail, bloodwood trees weighed down with bush coconuts like Christmas baubles, and the return of finches, which interpretive signs along the trail have told me used to be eaten by the Arrernte people and, yes, tasted like chicken.
The flight is almost silent, broken only by the intermittent blast of the balloon’s burner. After about 20 minutes the sun emerges, as red as a stoplight, over the eastern horizon, which is topped by the Opera House-like figure of Mount Undoolya in the East MacDonnells.
West Macdonnell Ranges Alice Springs Australia Gorges Rodna Waterhole Hidden Gems
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