A route tracing the unification hero’s flight across the peninsula in 1849 runs spectacularly over the Apennines then descends to the sea via a string of gorgeous Tuscan towns
I’ve lived in Italy for 40 years and have never heard of Modigliana. It’s hunkered down where two valleys meet, watched over by castle and crag. Despite some astonishment at seeing strangers, the inevitable Caffè Garibaldi serves good iced beer. A bas-relief shows local herocarrying Garibaldi on his back. The priest was an unlikely patriot who helped scores of fugitives escape the authorities.
If we get our walking done in the morning, the afternoons offer iced drinks under cool porticoes and museums full of fine art
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