A place where the sun never sets (though you still might not see it)

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Tourism is still a rarity when exploring this part of the Arctic.

“We’ve got a couple of hours and no real destination,” says voyage historian Nina Gallo as we step onto a stony, treeless shore in Nunavut in northern Canada. She’s talking about our upcoming hike, but she could easily be talking about expedition cruising as a whole.

The expedition team makes the excellent decision to hide out in Maxwell Bay while an angry weather system blows itself hoarse in the Lancaster Sound to the south. Below us, sun glints off the odd-looking X-shaped bow of the Sylvia Earle and, for a while, it seems as though everything on the trip will be smooth.Sylvia Earle herself would likely have told us to expect the unexpected in the Arctic.

The weather continues in an unhelpful tone for most of our time in Nunavut, the far-north Canadian province predominantly occupied by Inuit people. Mercifully it relents for just long enough that we are able to make a landing in Arctic Bay, a community of 1000 or so people, most of whom still make their living in fishing and hunting.

Back on board the ship, expedition leader Susan Adie tells me that she rarely gets complaints from people witnessing traditional Inuit hunting, or its bloody aftermath. “I think that stuff can be hard for some people to digest, but I’ve never had anyone say ‘Oh they shouldn’t be doing that’,” says Adie, who has completed 13 transits of the North West Passage. For her, the interactions with the Inuit are vital to the experience.

Source: Holiday News (holidaynews.net)

 

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