Yeohlee Teng: The Magic of Independent Fashion Design

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Yeohlee Teng: The Magic of Independent Fashion Design
Yeohlee TengFashion DesignUrban Nomad

Yeohlee Teng, founder of Yeohlee Inc., discusses her 36-year-old label and her philosophy of 'seasonless' clothing for the 'urban nomad.' Her work is celebrated in exhibitions like 'Fashion: Yeohlee Teng' (1984) and 'Intimate Architecture' (1982), and her designs are part of the Met's Costume Institute. She explores the power of clothing as both functional and symbolic, blending practicality with artistic vision.

Silhouettes of Yeohlee's work, seen in the exhibition “Fashion: Yeohlee Teng ” at PS 1 in 1984. Image credit: Yeohlee, photo by Yeohlee Teng Yeohlee Teng , founder of Yeohlee Inc., in this interview describes what makes the clothes she designs magical.

Her 36-year-old label is styled as “Independent fashion from the heart of New York City. ”work and designs are part of the permanent collection of the Costume Institute at New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art, where the late Richard Martin, then chief curator, called her"one of the most ingenious makers of clothing today.

"The designer dresses the"urban nomad," a term she coined in her fall 1997 collection, defining a lifestyle that requires clothing that works on a variety of practical and psychological levels. She is a master of design management and believes in the efficiency of year-round, “seasonless” clothes forMy brothers and their friends were all architects. We had this big sketch book in our house that everybody drew in, so I grew up drawing.

I was the school artist and designed all the costumes for our school plays and painted the murals there. I remember working on a mural with my best friend that was the length of the basketball court – my first lesson in scale. If you go back to the times of Cleopatra or the ancient Greeks and Romans, clothing was always making a statement. The complete quote was “Clothes have magic.

Their geometry forms shapes that can lend a wearer power. ” (Hayden Gallery, MIT, 1982, from the exhibition catalog,Going back in time, robes and voluminous headdresses were always profoundly understood by tribal chiefs as well as the Catholic Church to be powerful. Intimate Architecture: Contemporary Clothing Design, held at MIT’s Hayden Gallery, was a pivotal show that put women's fashion/clothing into the context of the design world.

Up until then it was women's fashion in magazines and in store windows, but this was a serious exhibition and it was about clothing as armor. It's not about the built environment that architects create. We create intimate architecture because it's the first shelter that you build around yourself. An image of a spring 1995 Yeohlee gown from the 2003 book, Yeohlee : Work.

Image courtesy of Alan Crespo A memorable example about clothes having magic happened with a woman who bought a coat of mine at Saks. At the end of a talk I was giving at Yale, during the Q&A, a woman in the audience stood up and said that at the beginning of her career when she wasn't making a lot of money there was a coat designed by Yeohlee that she really wanted.

She had an internal debate: “Should I buy the Yeohlee coat or pay the rent? ” She went back and forth about it for a week, and then she bought the coat.

Then a week later, she was walking down the street and this guy came up to her and said “My God, you look beautiful. ” She was certain that her beauty was buoyed by the coat she was wearing and she proudly said, “And we are still married today. ’”For instance, I was biking along the East River and stopped by the Brooklyn Bridge. I was surprised and amazed by the multitude of jellyfish swarming in the water.

Presto, spring 2009, jellyfish floating through Bernard Tschumi’sInspiration comes from everywhere and everything – the breeze, a song, a whisper or a being. A look from the Yeohlee ready-to-wear spring 2018 collection. Image credit: Yeohlee, photo by Kyle EricksenI watch and try to listen with an open mind and read as much as I can. Watch the clock.

You don't have a second to spare. Be driven. Deliver. Be a master of your own time. 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","iv":"bfc903b18fc9ee35f371f55135147147","s":"79f408b107d1264a"}Blancpain opens submissions for 2026 Imaginist Literary Prize

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Yeohlee Teng Fashion Design Urban Nomad Seasonless Clothing Costume Institute

 

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