Vibrant Cape Verdean culture draws people to drab Lisbon outskirt

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Just a 20-minute drive from downtown Lisbon lies Cova da Moura, one of Portugal&...

LISBON - Just a 20-minute drive from downtown Lisbon lies Cova da Moura, one of Portugal’s poorest and most neglected neighborhoods, but whose immigrants from Cape Verde are transforming the area’s image.

Sitting meters away from the tiny room where he grew up, Cabral, who now organizes tours of Cova da Moura, said contact with its people helps change perceptions.“When you visit once you keep on coming back.” The area remains notorious within Portugal for its crime rate and a trial over alleged police brutality. Seventeen officers at a local police station have been charged with torture, kidnapping, falsifying reports and other crimes.A photograph of Cape Verde's singing legend Cesaria Evora sits inside a restaurant in Cova da Moura neighbourhood in Lisbon, Portugal, November 23, 2018. REUTERS/Rafael MarchanteOf an evening, Cova da Moura is alive with African beats and melodies.

Now retired, 75-year-old Evaristo Marques, who was born in Cape Verde’s capital Praia, doesn’t see himself living anywhere else. “People can say whatever they want about Cova da Moura but I will only leave this place when I’m dead,” he said.

 

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