This Is the Year of the Fancy Deviled Egg

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This Is the Year of the Fancy Deviled Egg
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Covered in panko and topped with caviar, restaurants are giving the old-school appetizer its main character moment.

, a ramen restaurant in Manhattan, head chef Takashi Igarashi put a Japanese-influenced deviled egg on the menu about a year ago. His “Deviled Egg + Egg + Egg” features a decadent, creamy yolk whipped with karashi and wasabi that’s topped with uni, caviar, and an umami dashi jelly. On a busy night, he sells about 50 plates of deviled eggs. “They’re already so popular in the US that it doesn’t take any convincing for guests to order ours,” he says.

Deviled eggs are also a functional appetizer, says Jeff Grey, who runs JunkMail Pizza with his friend and business partner Dan Kane. The starter is well-suited to the gluten- and meat-intolerant crowds, while “still leaving plenty of room for the main course,” Kane says. At JunkMail Pizza’s most recent pop-up in September, Kane made Buffalo chicken deviled eggs with pickled celery, a paprika-heavy seasoning blend, and a sliver of crispy chicken skin that shattered on first bite.

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