Regenerative agriculture inspires exhaustive experiments in local flavor at Jordan Station’s fine-dining gem.
Should you ever find yourself in the position of scoring a table at a restaurant that’s perpetually booked up three months in advance, it’s best to arrive on time. But on the afternoon of my lunch reservation at, fate intervened in the form of traffic sparked by the most precious of Canadian commodities: a magnificent late-summer day.
The 60-acre property is lined with peach trees and fish ponds, flanked by two ominously buzzing bee boxes and a huddle of white Muscovy ducks. After lunch service, white-clad chefs toss vegetable scraps to the best-fed cows in Canada. A 38-seat dining room looks down upon it all, perched on the second floor of a sleek black barn once intended as tractor storage.
The full 10-course tasting experience draws from international wine producers and select small-batch Pearl Morissette wines that can be difficult to find anywhere else, like the 2017 Cuvée Metis, a zesty, almost acidic Chardonnay that's anything but oaky. For teetotalers there’s a nonalcoholic pairing that includes ultra tart apple juice lifted with sage and rhubarb, plus earthy matcha-honey-mushroom kombucha for a mid-meal digestion boost.
Mid-bite, it’s easy to forget the ideology behind the food and focus on the pure pleasure of noisily crunching on confit lamb crisped in fat, or inhaling thick-cut brioche topped with an impossibly juicy apricot moon. But sometimes the constraints breed a specific kind of high-minded creativity that’s immediately apparent.
“It’s about refining luxury, not as the most expensive or the rarest, but how authentic something is and how much it connects you to a sense of humanity and your place in the world,” Hadida says. “Why can’t we question every way that we can be working more intelligently, efficiently, carefully, honestly, with a greater sense of community and place and time?”Caught up in the waves of dishes and my bucolic surroundings, I keep coming back to the intersection of place and time.
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