Larry La fled Vietnam and thrived in restaurants. But he could not save his flagship Meiwah.

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Larry La fled Vietnam and thrived in restaurants. But he could not save his flagship Meiwah.
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Before the West End restaurant closed on May 15, La became a local legend by pampering his guests, including VIPs.

Meiwah owner Larry La chats with Sherri Xiao and her son Michael Xu, a student at Georgetown University, in the days before the restaurant closed. By Tim Carman Tim Carman Reporter focusing on national food issues; critic covering affordable and under-the-radar restaurants in the D.C. area.

Eight excruciating days after they left Vietnam, La and his family — father, mother, siblings, uncles and in-laws — finally landed in Malaysia, their voyage slowed painfully by the weight of all those passengers. This stopover, however, was just the beginning of the family’s odyssey. They would spend 15 months in a refugee camp in Malaysia before finding someone to sponsor them in the United States. The sponsor turned out to be the First Baptist Church of Erwin. As in Erwin, Tenn.

Case in point: Only an anecdote or two deep into his personal tale, La had to take a break. He needed to greet Luigi Buitrago-Ho, a former Washingtonian who has been dining at La’s restaurants for more than 30 years, dating back to City Lights of China in Dupont Circle, where La started in the hospitality business in 1988 without a lick of experience. Buitrago-Ho said he delayed a business trip to Panama to dine one last time at Meiwah.

It helps that La is naturally curious. He reads a lot. He wants to know a little something about every state, so he can chat with customers from across the country. But La is a political animal, too. He watches a lot of C-SPAN. Lunchtime diners at Meiwah, with a sweeping view of M Street NW. “That’s a big thing in D.C.,” La said. “If a senator or congressman, they walk in, they expect you to recognize them. If you don’t, that’s not good.”

His approach — part code-switching, part assimilation, part human empathy — proved successful. La lived in Erwin for only 6 1/2 years, but he maintains close ties to the area, largely because of his connections to nearby East Tennessee State University, where he graduated with a bachelor’s degree in business administration. “After they got to know me, and after I got to know them, we became very, very good friends,” La said of the people in Erwin.

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