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The center hearth at Maydan Market , where restaurants in the food hall share the flames they use to cook their dishes.With our free press under threat and federal funding for public media gone, your support matters more than ever.
Help keep the LAist newsroom strong,If you're enjoying this article, you'll love our daily newsletter, The LA Report. Each weekday, catch up on the 5 most pressing stories to start your morning in 3 minutes or less.in West Adams, your eyes immediately catch the giant copper-covered hearth at the center of the space. Those flames are the heart of L.A.’s newest food hall, providing the heat and smoky flavor for several of the restaurants housed within. “ Here, the idea is anybody that wants to cook on the fire, can,” said Rose Previte, founder of Maydan Market. “It's sort of the equivalent of our well.” Rose Previte, founder of Maydan Market, LA's newest food hall, which is also home two one of her two restaurants, here and in Washington, D.C., both named Maydan.Maydan Market has big ambitions. It hopes to reinvent the way L.A. restaurants do business, even as it pays homage to Previte's travels across the world — inspired by the souqs of the Middle East, the night markets of Mexico and Seoul. It also houses the second location of Previte’s flagship Washington, D.C., restaurant, “America just got sidetracked and like usual, did something a little off track and made the market a food court in a mall,” she told LAist. “I'm trying to bring us back to the OG way of doing this.”Restaurants provide a window onto the culture of a place. And in L.A., they've long served as a connector for the different communities who call the city home.Tuesdays through Sundays, 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. But note that hours vary at different food stalls. Closed Mondays.The COVID-19 pandemic followed by the Hollywood strikes have led to the shut down of food institutions across the region — over 150 in the City of Angels alone. These shutdowns come as the result of consumers shifting to food deliveries and the high cost of running a restaurant — produce, rent, labor ... it’s all adding up.“ We share labor, we share a lot of the things that break businesses, utilities in California are crazy expensive,” Previte said. “This way, possibly we all might be able to do just a little bit better by helping each other.” In a city like Los Angeles, where you'd have to brave traffic to get to your destination and then drive some more looking for parking, Maydan Market offers a microcosm of the many cultures that call Los Angeles home — all in one place. Previte grew up in a small town of about 3,000 in Ohio. Neighbors, she said, would stop by unannounced with vegetables from their garden that would be quickly cooked into dinner. This, Previte said, was reminiscent of her later travels to Syrian villages on the Turkish-Syria border on a “kebab research trip.”What does LA’s emergency declaration on the ICE raids mean? “ I went to multiple villages where there was a shared oven,” she said. “As Americans we take for granted that everyone just has large appliances to bake.” By sharing resources, Previte said, she hopes Maydan Market will offer a different business model for running a restaurant, “ where it's not so competitive” — but there's still plenty of room for success., inside Maydan Market. Running a restaurant is hard work, he said, and often newcomers do not find the support they need to navigate challenges. Maydan Market is an “amazing” chance for restaurant owners to share the space, including the kitchens, the fire and even table, chairs and cutlery, he said., also located inside Maydan Market. Martinez ran the Oaxacan street food pop up in South Los Angeles for nearly 10 years known as“Without fire, you can’t live,” Martinez told me while standing by the hearth watching as staff carefully prepare giant, thin tortillas folding them atop the smoldering heat.And that fire is the heart of the “maydan” or the center town square. Previte picked up the term from herIn Kyiv, the center square was known as Independence or Freedom Square, but everyone called it “maydan.” “And it was so powerful there because people came there to mourn a national catastrophe. They came to celebrate something and they also came to rebel,” Previte said. “And I want all those feelings to exist in my restaurants all of the time.” Maydan Market, she said, is her “resistance” as immigration enforcement ramps up under the Trump administration. “We're really proud of what L.A. is and all the communities that have made a home here and if we can do one little part in preserving that and protecting it, then we're doing our job,” Previte said. “Between my two cities, D.C. and LA, it's two of the hardest cities right now for the immigrant communities that support us and make us survive every day that open the doors of this restaurant every day.” Here’s a closer look at the restaurant concepts you will find inside the marketplace — and a few of the things I ate on my recent visit there:. The oyster mushrooms kebab was coated in a spicy zhoug sauce and then cooked over the central flames, perfectly charred and served on a bed of Kurdish tahini and shatta sauce. Halloumi is typically a cheese I tend to pass over — blame the copious amounts I ate as a child growing up in the Middle East — but I couldn’t pass up the chance to wrap a few bites topped with Egyptian peanut dukkah on tone flatbread . It was a sweet, soft, spicy flavor bomb. These dishes were served as part of the tawle experience . Tawle meaning table in Arabic is a communal dining experience where dips, appetizers and a main are brought to the table in a set menu so conversation can flow and community can be built.specializes in Oaxacan cuisine. I had never had a tlayuda before and was pleasantly surprised by how large the tortillas were — almost the size of my face! As I picked up the tasajo version — thin flank steak served alongside a large tortilla with black beans and quesillo cheese — Martinez quickly stopped me. The dish has lard and seeing my headscarf, he rightfully guessed I don’t eat pork. Quickly, he whipped up a mushroom version sans the pork fat. Smoky, earthy and brimming with Oaxacan cheese, definitely a dish I will be going back for., appear unassuming. But after one bite I was transported to night markets in Asia. Seasoned with hints of lemongrass and cumin, the chicken wings come paired with a basil leaf hot sauce. The star, however, was the chef's take on a chili paste with an umami shrimp punch. Since this was a marketplace and a melding of cultures, I may have put that chili paste on every dish I had that evening .. However, they all came with a pork base so my colleague Joshua Letona, who joined me on assignment, offered to do a taste test. After neatly piling the stew with jalapeno slices, crumbling cheese and squeezing lime, he dug in. “Pretty damn good,” he said. Enough said.will offer grab and go lunch options such as a wrap or a salad. Patrons can also shop for products such as Lebanese olive oil, Palestinian za’atar, Kurdish tahini and even skin care products.At LAist, we believe in journalism without censorship and the right of a free press to speak truth to those in power. Our hard-hitting watchdog reporting on local government, climate, and the ongoing housing and homelessness crisis is trustworthy, independent and freely accessible to everyone thanks to the support of readers like you.Congress voted to eliminate funding for public media across the country. Here at LAist that means a loss of $1.7 million in our budget every year. We want to assure you that despite growing threats to free press and free speech, LAist will remain a voice you know and trust. 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Chef Alfonso “Poncho” Martinez Chef Deau Arpapornnopparat Club 104 Compass Rose Lugya’H By Poncho’S Tlayudas Maléna By Tamales Elena Maydan Market Rose Previte Sook
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