It’s notoriously difficult to score a table at private dining pasta temple Ben Fatto 95, where self-taught artisan Lee Yum Hwa makes all his pastas by hand in honour of traditional techniques.
When we visited, Lee was in the glass-fronted pasta kitchen forming tiny parcels of tortellini, while passersby on the street stopped to gawk and take pictures. He won’t always be there, though; he told us he plans to split his time between the restaurant and his home dining business.
If that sounds like fiddly, finicky, backbreaking work, well, it is. Watch Lee and Tsi fashioning tiny tortellini one at a time, and you’ll resolve to savour your pasta very, very slowly.The tortellini, little parcels of pork-filled pasta, are served in a clear, slow-simmered chicken brodo – a deceptively plain broth until you taste it together with bites of the pasta. That’s when the meaty magic comes out.
These are just some of the pastas on the menu that we sampled – and we haven’t yet mentioned the antipasti.
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