Why the founder of Diesel jeans wants to build an Italian rival to compete with LVMH and Kering

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Renzo Rosso tells the Financial Times why he wants to create a luxury conglomerate in a country where many fashion businesses are still small and family-owned.

The founder of jeans label Diesel and owner of fashion brands Jil Sander and Marni has said he wants to build an Italian luxury conglomerate to compete with French groups such as Kering and LVMH.

OTB has plans for a stock market listing and Rosso is in the process of hiring bankers to advise him. “Of course our [market capitalisation] will be different from the big French groups but my ambition is to show that Italian brands can come together and strengthen each other.” It is only Italy’s 14th largest global trade partner and according to Italy’s national fashion chamber, the country’s luxury goods exports to Russia amounted to €1.4 billion a year before the war.

Rosso said one-third of the group’s investments over the next three years would be focused on expanding in China. OTB currently has 80 stores in the country, where it employs almost 1,000 people. It is aiming to double the number of both stores and staff there by 2024.Rosso is a council member at the national fashion chamber.

Models present creations during the MM6 Maison Margiela catwalk show for the FW22/23 collection during Milan Fashion Week in February. Since the start of the war, he has brought more than 440 Ukrainian refugees to Italy and supported them through the foundation run by his wife Arianna Alessi, local NGOs and donations from citizens and other companies.

 

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