When fresh isn't best: Why dry-aged fish is making a splash in Singapore's top restaurants

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When it comes to fish, we tend to think of fresh as best. In a growing handful of Singapore’s most illustrious restaurants, though, it isn’t the catch of the day you should go for – it’s the catch that was left hanging in the fridge for a week. Meet dry-aged fish, an age-old culinary technique that’s making waves in fine-dining...

When it comes to fish, we tend to think of fresh as best. In a growing handful of Singapore’s most illustrious restaurants, though, it isn’t the catch of the day you should go for – it’s the catch that was left hanging in the fridge for a week. Meet dry-aged fish, an age-old culinary technique that’s making waves in fine-dining once more.

Prior to the ageing process, Chef Isaac shares, “the fish has to be thoroughly cleaned in cold salted water to remove any blood traces and slime.” This removes the strong ‘fishy’ odours that make us turn up our noses at raw fish, and often achieves a cleaner taste as well. “When cooking,” he adds, “the fish is also cleaner as it doesn’t produce blood protein.”

Another popular choice is turbot, already a highly prized catch in the fine-dining world. Aged turbot takes pride of place in Salted and Hung’s latest tasting menus, dubbed The Journey of Sustainability . Into his dry-ageing cabinet also goes otoro, first cured in fennel pollen for two days and dried for a further four days wrapped in cloth. After a sprinkling of espelette pepper and Amalfi lemon juice, the tuna is then frozen and sliced to form rich tuna lardo.

 

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