Watches And Wonders 2024: Rolex Perpetual 1908 with a guilloche dial, IWC’s eternal calendar watch among hot timepieces

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World's biggest watch fair opens amid uncertainty in luxury sector caused by factors such as subdued demand from China.

– Watches And Wonders 2024 opened at Geneva’s convention centre Palexpo on April 9, showcasing a heady display of horology by watchmakers running the gamut from big boys Rolex and Patek Philippe to independents including Bremont and Urwerk.

The slowdown was precipitated by several factors, including subdued demand from China, geopolitical tensions and rising interest rates. Others brought in celebrities. IWC had English celebrity physicist Brian Cox as well as Brazilian supermodel Gisele Bundchen. Hublot had French footballer Kylian Mbappe Lottin, while Zenith flew in Singapore actor Desmond Tan.

This stunner is a highly anticipated follow-up to the wildly successful Pepsi GMT first launched in 2018. Featuring a bi-directional Coke bezel and an advanced jumping local-hour GMT complication, it also boasts a new 4Hz movement – the MT5450-U – which has Metas master chronometer certification. Visible through the transparent caseback is the watch’s heart: the Calibre CH 28‑520 C, a self-winding flyback chronograph which includes a 60-minute and 12-hour counter positioned at six o’clock, ticks at 4Hz and has a 55-hour power reserve.The world’s first eternal calendar watch, the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar features a moon-phase indicator which is precise for a mind-boggling 45 million years.

Generating murmurs of admiration at the fair, the new incarnation of the Cartier Tortue Monopusher Chronograph is available in either platinum or yellow gold, and sports a distinctively shaped 43.7mm by 34.8mm case, which is 10.2mm thick. The one-of-a-kind watch was initially previewed at 2023’s One Watch charity auction, which was cancelled at the last minute in November because of a controversy over transparency issues.

 

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