I have often found it odd just how quickly someone would claim a piece of protein they had trouble identifying tasted like chicken. Was it the less-than-flavourful sample that threw them off? Or perhaps a less than adept palate is to blame, although that too would be okay. We have, after all, been entertained by the fact that even trained chefs have at some point failed to identify the common poultry.
Of course, there are ample recipes that revel in the chicken’s clean yet penetrating depth of flavour. Like a nostalgic pot of my mum’s chicken afritada that the family still craves. Growing up, I had never gushed specifically about the flavour of the chicken she used, which was often the cheapest one available . But recreating the dish with a more flavourful French chicken yielded new insights into the untapped potential of such plebeian fare.
“I would like to add that the Gallic rooster is a symbol of France, so you can say that we take our chicken very seriously,” assured Louis Pacquelin, chef-owner of reimagined French brasserie Clos Pasoh. “These well-treated chickens in a natural environment that allows them the space to roam free in fields,” he said, before elaborating on the qualities Bresse chickens are well positioned to develop, such as a much firmer meat compared to caged chickens.
The breed in question is the “naked neck”, shared TTSF’s head of projects Kenny Toh, who noted its ability to handle hot weather as one of the key qualities outside its desired flavour profile. Rearing the birds from hatchling also allows for early quality checks. It begins with day-old chicks being flown in from Sabres in France to be reared as breeders, and only select male and female hatchings are reared.
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