All over Singapore – in common grass patches, roadside trees and sandy beaches – edible life flourishes, unnoticed by most. Only local foragers are exempt from ignorance.
Of the 101 plants itemised in his local catalogue, Mr Yeo’s favourites are the most ubiquitous weeds: lavender sorrel, the wild pepper plant and the gunpowder plant, which are found “easily everywhere”, he said. The work of a forager is often solitary – by design, Mr Yeo and Mr Luo say, after upwards of 10 years in the scene without ever crossing paths. Still, both guides say the sudden tide of interest stem from a concern with food security.
Years ago, he boiled wild yam to neutralise its numbing effect only to have it sear his mouth with “pins and needles”, he said. The “poison” was mild but he had to stop eating. Mother and son stood stooped in the shallow water of an islet, scanning the sea for the flash of pink and stripe of green, typical of the siput ranga’s shell, the sudden white of the gong gong jantan and the fat orange flesh of the siput kilah, all staples of a bygone diet, when supermarkets were a boat ride away.
SINGAPOREAN FOOD FOOD SECURITY MALAY FOOD CONSERVATION/PRESERVATION
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