Step through a tiny, paved passageway in a Mohamed Sultan shophouse and past a light-bathed Zen garden, and you’ll find a counter with 12 seats, each place set with a mini karesansui garden for you to rake your own way to Zen-ness, and a welcome in the form of a poem printed on a tiny piece of paper.In Ginza, the cosy establishment has a dedicated following.
Dessert is a handmade muscat grape daifuku with crystal-clear mizu shingen mochi, because Sasagawa doesn’t want to simply serve a platter of predictable fruit. While unobtrusive in the tradition of sushi masters, Sasagawa possesses a buoyant sense of humour that’s limited only by his proficiency in English. At the same time, his youth belies long years of discipline and training. His hands have progressed from being covered in cuts when he first started as an apprentice, to very supple from constantly perfecting the art of sushi.
For the young chef, the essence of his craft lies in the shari, the precisely calibrated, vinegared rice that is shaped between his deft hands. The shari at Takahashi is a very balanced one that allows the fish to bask in the spotlight.To allow himself room for expression while carrying traditional skills on into the future, Sasagawa is interested in the link between cooking and chemistry.
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