Of wine, hand gel and heartbreak

The economic crisis brought on by the coronavirus, combined with the Trump administration's 25 per cent tax on French wines in the trade war dispute with Europe, has collapsed the wine market.

Marion Borès' family business, Domaine Borès, in Reichsfeld, is sending 30 per cent of its production - 19,000 litres."It's like you are saying goodbye to somebody who is very dear to you," the 27-year-old winemaker said."This is not exactly the destination we had in mind when we made this wine." "We're continuously distilling," said Erwin Brouard, the company's director."It's something that's very sad for the winemakers. Their stocks are too big. They've got to make space. And the harvest is early this year."

Alsace is having to resort to Crisis Distillation for the first time in its history, although it is not unknown in other wine regions. The last time this happened was in 2009, after the financial collapse. Wholesale wine traders are facing losses of 70 per cent, he said. But the monetary losses are one thing. There is also the psychological blow.

"These are vines that we fuss over the whole year round," said her mother, Marie-Claire."We do everything by hand. And now, this. Terrible." Climbing the steep slope, Ms Borès said,"We played in these vines," adding that she takes part in the harvest herself.

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