New hiking trails in Malaysia wind through lush rainforest, past waterfalls, to a mist-shrouded world of abandoned colonial bungalows

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The reopening of Malaysia’s borders on April 1 after two years of travel curbs aimed at preventing the spread of Covid-19 could see Taiping claim a place on the tourist map. The second biggest town in Perak state, and its capital before 1937, Taiping is an hour’s drive south of Penang island but gets only a fraction of its visitors,...

Three new hiking trails of 8km, 10km and 14km take hikers to the top of Maxwell Hill, in Taiping, in Malaysia’s Perak state.The reopening of Malaysia’s borders on April 1 after two years of travel curbs aimed at preventing the spread of Covid-19 could see Taiping claim a place on the tourist map.

The town was an important colonial administrative centre and boasts many firsts, including British Malaya’s first prison, lake gardens and commercial railway — to Port Weld — which opened in 1885 to transport tin 16km to the mangrove-draped coast. “Initially I was just focused on making the race, but then I realised that Taiping does not have any permanent trekking trail like those on Hong Kong’s outlying islands or Singapore’s Bukit Timah,” MMTF president Ewegene Tan says.

Attempting the trail, which passes through dense jungle and over various rock formations, I rest on an outcrop at 350m, watching the sloshing Ranting waterfall. Later, fighting off leeches, I emerge drenched in sweat, rain and a little blood, in front of the mist-shrouded Box. At 1,260m is the Nest, which has just reopened under the management of the MMTF events team. Built for the use of Scottish businessman John Fraser in 1887, it’s a gracious white timber house with a pitched roof overhanging a veranda.None of the eight colonial bungalows — others opened as basic rest-houses pre-pandemic — has been significantly restored.

 

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