Is it okay to say 'fusion' again? These restaurants in London show a new way of mixing up global cuisines

“Fusion is a term that no longer has meaning,” French celebrity chef Cyril Lignac wrote to me from Paris, describing the concept behind his Mayfair outpost Bar des Pres with its marked Japanese and French references.

Long gone are the days of dishes such as ramen burgers, Thai red curry risotto and Brussels sprout sushi. Instead, these radical new menus subtly reference established traditions, drawing inspiration from existing recipes and niche ingredients while testing the limits of culinary creativity – and the results are both surprising and exquisite.

The presentation of many dishes brings to mind Kandinsky paintings, with dramatically juxtaposed colours and shapes: a teardrop-shaped fritter next to a tiny splash of Dutch orange mayo, and a perfectly circular pool of green foam poured next to a slanted cross-section of bright red meat, with a leaf asymmetrically propped next to it.

Angelina offers a four- or 10-course tasting menu, prepared by head chef Usman Haider. “The intense smell of rosemary in the mornings when we make focaccia takes me back to the summer smell of the Umbrian countryside where I spent the best of my teenage years,” Owens-Baigler said of the menu at the time of my visit.

Cagali’s tasting menu offers an assortment of dishes that reflect his eclectic curriculum – he worked in Italy under chef Stefano Baiocco at A Villa Feltrinelli and in Spain for Quique Dacosta and Martín Berasategui, before settling in the UK with stints at The Fat Duck, Yashin Ocean House and with Simon Rogan .

Some critics have called it kitsch, but the immersion into an Amazonian parallel world is pure fun: the Lazaro Rosa-Violan-designed space is covered in luscious foliage, which may well make it London’s only indoor restaurant with a dedicated team of gardeners. There is a bar, sushi counter, dining room and a basement speakeasy, where bartenders serve signature cocktails .

Source: Entertainment Trends (entertainmenttrends.net)

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