SINGAPORE – Half a century ago, Yves Saint Laurent created his iconic Le Smoking and changed womenswear forever. The menswear-inspired tuxedo was first a scandal, and then quickly a sensation.
It was not until Vaccarello tapped the inherent femininity at the heart of the brand that his menswear finally clicked.The interesting thing is that it is the world’s biggest brands and most established designers who are keying into this new, more feminine mood for menswear.It is almost a given that young, indie and/or queer designers – your Ludovic de Saint Sernins and Palomo Spains – will push the boundaries of gender and identity in fashion.
The duo took their signatures and cinched, sculpted and whittled them into volumes that evoked their sensuous womenswear. As a result, the clothes were the freshest and most fashion-forward they have looked in years.Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen was inspired by McQueen’s time on Savile Row. Hence, her starting point of razor-sharp tailoring, to which she applied the dissection and subversion that are the house’s core qualities.
The aforementioned collections are still very much rooted in the classical codes of menswear – suits and tuxes, and the like.The intention is not to make men look effeminate, but to push the aesthetic limits of what is often thought of as traditional masculinity.
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