Dying trade: Traditional snack sellers in Jakarta grapple with dwindling demand, modern tastes

JAKARTA: Back in the 80s, Mr Sahro would peddle his kue putu - steamed rice flour cake filled with palm sugar and served with coconut shavings - door to door.

Mr Sahro persevered against the odds, and is now doing good business due to lack of competition. There are only around 20 places in Jakarta that still sell kue putu. His nearest competitor is more than 4.5km away. Another fast disappearing snack is rangi cake, made from tapioca flour served with coconut shavings and caramelised sugar.“The people who buy my putu do so because they used to eat it as children,” he said. “That’s why my customers are all over 40 years old. I worry that if they pass on, there won’t be anyone left looking for putu cake.”

“Thankfully in my neighbourhood there are still many Betawi people around. Especially, if there are Betawi weddings and gatherings. It’s tradition to serve cucur cake.” “Other Betawi snacks don’t have the sweet and savoury taste of a pancong or the different textures of an ape,” the 31-year-old said. Chief of the Jakarta Tourism and Culture Agency, Mr Iwan Wardhana said the government is trying to help sellers of Betawi snacks, so that the heritage is not lost.

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