Upon landing in Tokyo in December, three years since my last visit, I thought about where I should first eat and drink in this vast, wondrous city. The answer was obvious: Iseto, an ancient sake-drinking den operating in the same wooden house since 1948.
Food- and drink-focused travellers seem always to be after what’s best and what’s new. But establishments like Iseto offer a persuasive counterargument that we should instead seek out what has enduredlocales that express a distinctive eating and drinking culture and offer insights into a region: Spanish customers like to congregate around a bar where everyone can converse; Japanese adore a place where they can be comfortably alone.
But you don’t come to Iseto just for the food and drink. You come for the evocative, transporting atmosphere, and because, unlike many other bars this old or this nostalgic, it remains a living, local place with rules that you disobey at your peril: If customers’ voices become too loud, the master shushes everyoneand they shut up. No photography is permitted. This is a drinking den, but of a peculiar kind. Last order is at 8.
Tai no kabutoni, or simmered sea bream head, at Uosan Sakaba, an izakaya on the far eastern side of Tokyo, May 2023.
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