Different district, different noodles: Sabah Chinese cuisine a reflection of immigrant history and adaptation

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KOTA KINABALU: Sabah is well-known for a variety of Chinese noodle dishes, each named after the districts in the state. In Tuaran, the noodles are wok-fried until partially crispy with a beaten egg, before protein and vegetables are added. In Tenom, the noodles are drenched in silky egg gravy and ser

KOTA KINABALU: Sabah is well-known for a variety of Chinese noodle dishes, each named after the districts in the state.

Noting the different versions, Mdm Siaw Shui Lian, the director of the women’s division in the Kota Kinabalu Hakka Association explained that this was so because the Hakka and other immigrant communities from different parts of China had congregated in specific districts. Over the years, these noodle dishes achieved not just local fame, but also gained popularity among Malaysians from other states and even foreign visitors.A "kon lou" version of ngiu chap noodles at Loi Hin Ngiu Chap. 'We focus on getting through each day': Old KL eateries dig into savings while waiting out COVID-19 stormLok Kyun Restaurant in the coastal Tuaran district, about an hour’s drive from Kota Kinabalu, is a well-regarded institution serving Tuaran mee.

“I still feel this business has a future. We just have to be modest, all we’re aiming for is two square meals a day.”A 60-year-old KL bakery rides out COVID-19 with old-school cakes, but continuity is an issueLike Tuaran, the hilly agricultural district of Tenom has its own local noodles created by Hakka emigrants who arrived here from Longchuan county in China’s Guangdong province.“But as a kid, I already remember eating this before going to school,” the 53-year-old said.

Samantha Yong, 29, who runs the shop with her parents Stanley Yong and Rose Yap, gathered a fistful of kway teow and tossed them into a pot of boiling water. The late Mr Yong managed to find work in a kitchen near Kota Kinabalu’s Gaya Street during the Japanese Occupation and learnt some culinary skills, he said.

As time progressed, Mr Yong’s siblings have also moved on to open their own branches of Loi Hin ngiu chap, with his brother Stanley opening up another shop just down the street from his.

 

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