Beyond kimchi: South Korean food gets luxe update at these Seoul restaurants

OUL Bar at Four Seasons Hotel Seoul is among the F&B joints putting a fresh spin on South Korean classics.

Mr Ike Ryu, a mixologist at OUL Bar, Four Seasons Hotel Seoul, wants to bring together Korean spirits and modern ingenuity. In 2017, he opened his own restaurant, Dooreyoo, in Bukchon Hanok Village. Home to more than 900 hanoks, it is Seoul’s largest concentration of traditional Korean homes which have been converted into restaurants, cafes and bars.

Menus kick off with a classic Korean dish such as juk, a rice porridge with organic and hand-picked seaweed, as well as cooling summer noodles served with a creamy peanut and soya-bean paste dressing, garnished with foraged herbs.The piece de resistance is Jeju Black Pig Ssam. The meat is served with leafy vegetables meant to be eaten as a wrap, along with wild mushrooms from the nearby mountains and housemade fermented soya-bean paste.

It is helmed by chef Son Jong-won, who has trained at the Culinary Institute of America and worked at three-Michelin-starred Quince in San Francisco.Traditional Korean dishes like japchae , juk and naengmyeon might seem run-of-the-mill, but award-winning chef Son puts his own spin on them at the two-Michelin-starred establishment.

Seafood terrine, where sea bream, octopus, abalone and sea cucumber are wrapped with fermented white kimchi. PHOTO: MICHELLE TCHEA Executive chef Kim Byoung-jin, who headed the kitchen at three-Michelin-starred restaurant Gaon in Seoul before it closed in 2024, is behind Bicena’s menu.

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