Art's tasting menu shows off a new side to Italian food

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If you like your pasta and pizza and gelato, and if the words Italian fine dining call to mind a sun-drenched table by the Adriatic Sea where you inhale parma ham and melon, then Art — the one-star restaurant perched atop the National Gallery — is not the place for you. What it is: interpretive, surprising, and maybe at times...

Instagram/Artrestaurant.sg

Nevertheless, his new Italian cuisine does open the mind to what an upscale interpretation of the largely-homestyle cuisine could taste, especially given the tendency for similar joints to lean rustic, casual, and homey . To be fair, even as it sprinkles on the fine dining fairy dust, Art does retain some of the things universally beloved about Italian food.

They sit stoutly in a sweet, light consomme of toasted corn, with morello mushrooms and black truffle. It's clearly got rustic roots, but has been elevated to something technically complex and Michelin-worthy. But perhaps it's popular with other diners, for this dish is also a carry-over from the previous menu.

For meatier dishes, the fish is a good pick also retained from the previous lineup: a light steamed corvina in a white Riesling sauce, topped with a thin, gelatinous veil of peppers that melts away and steals the show; a masterful balance of flavours.

 

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