My Zambasulta food trip, with Palm Grill as my guide

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A lunch date at Palm Grill with partners Miguel Cabel Moreno and Nelson Canlas will always turn out to be more than just the food arrayed in front of you, but also an enlightening conversation—that’s the closest we can get to culinary anthropology.

Miguel is extremely proud of his Tausug heritage, and how the two have niched their eatery into a haven for Zambasulta cuisine.Zamboanga, Basilian, Sulu, and Tawi-Tawi, it’s pretty obvious that not much is known about their cuisine, and when you throw in the fact that Palm Grill is the sole restaurant in Luzon championing this cuisine.

Inspired by his Lola’s and Mother’s cooking from back home, Miguel informs me that the dishes at Palm Grill are put over a slow fire for 90 minutes; and how one of the basics with Tausug cooking has to do with young coconut meat roasted in a ‘pugon’ for 3 hours as part of the process. One way to get yourself introduced to the Zambasulta flavors is to order their Dulang, which could be best described as a sampler of various Zambasulta dishes.The tiyula itum is a black beef soup, cooked with lemongrass, galangal, tumeric, garlic, onions and pepper. The black aspect comes from the burnt coconut meat used in preparing this dish/broth. Think of Bulalo, but brought to a different Tausug dimension.

If Palm Grill is all about being proud of Zambasulta culture and cuisine, then it has to be said that Miguel and Nelson are doing an astounding job. They recently celebrated Palm Grill’s fifth year, and that includes over two years of this pandemic. It definitely says something for the resilience and bright near-future of Palm Grill.

 

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