Goat three ways, ‘espasol’ ice cream—Filipino, but not the usual

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The chefs of Hapag have been making the most out of their quarantine downtime.

It took them two months to get back on their feet and set safety measures inside the restaurant, but once things were in place, Kevin Navoa, Thirdy Dolatre and Kevin Villarica were quick to adjust to the times and get back into the kitchen.

They took further advantage of the lockdown by brainstorming on new dishes. They wanted a complete overhaul of their initial tasting menu. “There was one bread accompaniment that they served at Dewakan Restaurant where I trained. It was fermented tapioca called tapai ubi,” he says. “It was fermented with ragi, which we call bubud in the Philippines to make rice wine. I tried to do this with purple potato and preserved it in charcoal oil. We eventually decided to add another process and make it into purple potato halaya to make it more Filipino.” It lends a subtle sweetness that goes well with the sourdough.

The dish comes as a trio, each inspired by a major island province: kilawing kambing with pandan ensalada for Luzon, kambing inasal with salsa verde and annatto tortilla for the Visayas, and kambing satti pastil with pickled cucamelons for Mindanao.

 

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