FASHION RETHINKING. Gucci's designer Alessandro Michele is one of the fashion designers calling for a rethinking of how luxury fashion works after the coronavirus pandemic. File photo by Miguel Medina/AFP"Nothing will ever be the same again" has been the constant refrain of the coronavirus era.Tectonic plates have been shifting inside the industry during the lockdown, with a wave of designers standing up to say that the mad whirr of the fashion circus has to slow.
While many have questioned its frenetic rhythm and wasteful over-production for years, few big-name insiders dared openly to question the hamster wheel of spring/summer, autumn/winter, cruise and pre-fall shows, as well as the now mandatory capsule collections.Anthony VaccarelloHenceforth"the brand will lead its own rhythm... and take control of its pace and reshape its schedule," he declared.
"Clothes should have a longer life," he said in a virtual press conference from Milan, insisting that his future collections would be"seasonless". Michele is no pouting rebel, but fashion's commercially savvy darling who has turned Gucci into a cash cow for the French luxury conglomerate Kering with his ironic kitschy style that has echoes of Wes Anderson and John Waters films.The doyen of designers, Giorgio Armani – still working at age 85 – said it was time to"cut out the superfluous" and rein in fashion's gruelling schedule.
"The times that we are living in are turbulent, but they give us a unique chance to see what is not working... to find a more human dimension to it," he said.
Rage against the sewing machine.
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