Danish chef embraces plant-based menu, faces backlash but earns global acclaim

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By Sanne Wass Danish chef Rasmus Kofoed has no regrets about going mostly meat free at his three-Michelin star restaurant, even if the decision spurred a wave of hate from across Denmark.

Danish chef Rasmus Kofoed has no regrets about going mostly meat free at his three-Michelin star restaurant, even if the decision spurred a wave of hate from across Denmark.

This weekend, dozens of food guides will be deployed at a summer music festival to mingle with concertgoers and stage engaging plant-based cook-ups. A hospitality college in Copenhagen is developing a vegetarian chef degree, while business conferences are trying to nudge attendees toward veggie options. These are just some of the first 36 ideas getting a boost from a $100 million Plant Fund that accompanies the plan.

“It sends a signal to countries that are similarly deeply rooted in the meat tradition that it’s possible to create dialogue and start initiatives for change. It’s easy to copy-and-paste,” Dragsdahl says. Just this week Denmark also succeeded in negotiating a tax on farm emissions with key industry players.

Caterers often default to these labels, she says, but they give little information about what you’re eating. One organization Madkulturen—which means “food culture” in English—has recruited 35 food guides aged 19 to 28 for a so-called “plant corps.” The guides, who have received training in plant-based food preparation, will showcase their new skills at Denmark’s largest music festival in Roskilde from June 29, and other events in the fall.

 

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