The Dunmore, Rathmines, review: neighbourhood restaurant serves crowd-pleasing dishes in a smart room

The Dunmore, Rathmines, review: neighbourhood restaurant serves crowd-pleasing dishes in a smart roomFish, Cork, takeaway review: smart new fish and chip shop serves up deliciously fresh fruits of the seaA skewer of shelled Atlantic prawns has been charred so there is a nice taste of the grill and a hint of garlic, but yet again, the bread, this time focaccia, is just ho-hum, and not something I would even describe as focaccia.

Turbot is on the menu, always a temptation, but I opt for the more inexpensive option, cod , which is the fish of the day special. With this dish in particular, you can get a full sense of what The Dunmore is doing right. This fish is deliciously fresh and cooked meticulously. There is no messing around with techniques like sous vide, instead it has been judiciously seasoned and cooked so that the skin is golden on top and the flakes of the fish are still succulent.

I love a fish pie but always worry about what makes its way into the mix, for instance, salmon, which just feels like it is there to bulk it out. I am very happy to report that the fish pie at The Dunmore , which comes in a traditional white oval dish, has no salmon, and instead is loaded with undyed smoked haddock, prawns and cod, bubbling under a golden topping of cheesy potatoes. The simple salad that accompanies it is nicely dressed.

Desserts are €10 and there is a choice of chocolate fondant, baked cheesecake, sticky toffee pudding and apple crumble. We opt for the latter because I am always on the lookout for a top crumble. It is tasty, the apple has been cooked slowly so that there is a slightly caramelised flavour, but as is generally the case, the crumble has been scattered on later and not baked with it from the outset. It is served with ice cream and a jug of creme anglaise.

The Dunmore is not looking to win any prizes for creativity, which is actually a sound strategy. It is a menu that has plenty of crowd pleasers, but, critically, they are done well. This is what most people want when they go out to dinner. Likerestaurant nearby, you get the sense that they have a very good idea of who their customer is and are likely to do very well indeed.

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