It may not be the largest producer, but Austria turns out world-class wines

John Wilson: The native grüner veltliner grape is great to drink on its own, but also pairs excellently with foodI recently travelled to VieVinum, the biennial wine fair held in The Hofburg Palace in the centre of Vienna. There were more than 500 wineries offering samples to more than 1200 wine professionals, and a lot of thirsty locals too.

But the main focus of the event was definitely on Austrian wine. Austria is not the world’s largest producer but the wines, while rarely cheap, generally attain a very high standard. Strong points include world-class dessert wines, riesling, sauvignon, chardonnay as well as some seriously good red wines. Sparkling wine is steadily improving too.

The most widely planted grape variety is the native grüner veltliner. Styles vary from light and racy to spicy, structured and powerful. Most of the best wines come from the Kremstal, Kamptal and Wachau regions. Rarely aged in new oak, they all offer a freshness and purity of fruit that make them great to drink on their own, but also fantastic food wines.

As well as the wines below, look out for wines from Eichinger , Brundlmayer , Geyerhof and Malat .Light and refreshing with green apples and pears. A great summer wine to enjoy alongside mixed salads, Asian prawns or chicken.Light and crisp with racy vibrant green apple fruits and a touch of ginger. Try it with a herby salad or fresh cheese.Rich peaches with herbal notes cut through with fresh orange peel acidity. A very stylish aperitif or great with asparagus.

Blackrock Cellar; McHughs, D5; Nectar Wines, D18; Neighbourhood Wine; Clontarf Wines; Drinkstore, D7; Martins, D3; D-Six, D6.A magnificent, structured wine replete with mouth-watering lush peach and pineapple fruits; spicy too, with a creamy texture and stony minerals, all bound up in a fine acidity. A more opulent style that would go nicely with a quiche, smoked salmon, sushi or a schnitzel, the local favourite.

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