Arriving in Mexico, it dawns on me this is a massive, massive country

The river is heavily polluted from the wastewater from over half a million upstream inhabitants getting into it, along with rubbish, mainly plastic. Every year, some 5,000 tons of garbage is fished out of the river, the fourth most-polluted in Mexico. Thankfully, one doesn’t see it from 1,000m above. I peered over the edge along with Mark and Odette Nolan from Southampton and Paul and Charlotte Reisch from Los Angeles.

On the road into a place named Cintalapa de Figueror there was the arresting sight of a large sculpture of a traditional Mexican horseman riding a horse rampant. He’s wearing chaps and a big sombrero and very much looks the part. Behind him was a hotel and restaurant, named Sonia Miriam, which has a sort of Thelma and Louise feel to it.

A one-legged man called Eri was holding out a plastic beaker in the hope drivers slowing down would drop money into it. Photograph: Peter Murtagh At the side of the road, under the shade of a bush, his pal and accomplice, Gabriel, banged out tunes on an electric piano, aided by a loudspeaker and microphone. Between the pair of them, they were quite an act.

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