In Kansas, Beat writer William S Burroughs had fresh-squeezed lemonade with his morning methadone before getting down to the business of feeding his wiry clowder of cats. Playwright Tennessee Williams was a dedicated gourmet who taught himself to cook in retaliation to his mother’s “uncanny ability to make tinned soup taste like dishwasher detergent”, and his favourite dessert was a Girl Scout recipe for lemon icebox pie.
Poet Maya Angelou believed cooking was another means of communication; she loved her grandmother’s “unimaginably good” lemon meringue pie, a dish that would make “a rabbit hug a hound” and “a preacher lay his Bible down”. Sylvia Plath’s journals are filled with grocery lists and recipes for kitchen creations that acted as a form of therapy for the troubled writer.
Joan Didion saw something deeply ominous in California’s lemons. Her essay “Some Dreamers of the Golden Dream” details a grisly true-life murder: in 1964, San Bernardino resident Lucille Miller burned her husband alive in their Volkswagen, having pushed it into a lemon grove. The plan was to collect the double-indemnity insurance – Miller’s route to the lifestyle promised to her by Hollywood.
Traditionally made with lemon zest, the scallop-shaped cake known as a madeleine was the trigger for seven volumes of Marcel Proust’s opus,, after its narrator takes a bite and is transported into the past. And on June 16 1904, the hero of James Joyce’s, Leopold Bloom, visits Sweny’s pharmacy in Dublin and spends four pence on a bar of soap that smells of “sweet lemony wax”, an item that has become somewhat talismanic for Joyce aficionados.
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