©Justin de Villeneuve / Iconic ImagesSimple shift dresses, glamorous devoré wraps, sequinned bodices, leopard print coats, trouser suits, floppy hats and feather boas all epitomised the “Biba” look, originally created in 1963 by Barbara Hulanicki, who trained first as a fashion illustrator.
Upstairs shows how Biba became the first lifestyle brand – Hulanicki created the first full cosmetic range for black skin – engaging photographers such as Sara Moon and Helmut Newton to work on campaign images for the brand’s highly stylised catalogues, which are now collectors items. The exhibition is a fascinating insight into the brand and Hulanicki’s foresight as a designer.
Highlights include some of the most recognisable and bestselling dolls, including the “surfer girl” Sunset Malibu Barbie from 1971, and the Day to Night Barbie from 1985, which was designed to reflect the workplace revolution for women in the 1980s, and which saw Barbie’s work-attire pink suit transform into a chic evening gown. There will also be two examples of 1992’s Totally Hair Barbie, the best-selling Barbie of all time which has sold over ten million across the globe.
The final section of the show spotlights the enduring role Barbie has as a pop culture icon, looking at her impact on design from fashion to film, as well as the Barbie brand’s forays into social advocacy. This section also will include original costumes worn by actors in the 2023 movie. “Barbie: The Exhibition” opens on July 5 and runs until February 23, 2025;
Other designers featured include the late Jean Muir, known for her precision cut and attention to detail. The Long Library will be the backdrop for Stella McCartney’s designs, while the dramatic Red Drawing Room is a fitting setting for Zandra Rhodes’ flamboyant dresses. Anglo Irish designer Lulu Guinness is also being featured with a treasure trove of handbags as well as new pieces crafted from recycled materials exclusively for the exhibition.
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