These Canadian tastemakers are introducing Montreal’s rich and celebratory style of cooking to London

20 years ago, Montreal native André Blais predicted an appetite in London for authentic American-style barbecue. While his platters sold well, his hot sandwiches hardly flew out the door, especially not at dinnertime.

“Bodean’s proved there was a niche here for American smoked barbecue, but Montreal smoked meat hadn’t yet taken off here,” says Blais. “We’re educating the English culture that hot sandwiches can be treated as a hot meal.” flavours. In the north London location, where tables are nigh on impossible during the brunch shift, Braham trialed smoked-trout kugel, smoked meat on challah and a rum cocktail called Manny Shevitz during the dinner service. Among his more recent ventures is the Good Bagel, a Montreal bakery selling a “Bagels de Montréal” tote bag and a “Boyz II Mensch” baseball cap.

Chef Johnny Lake of the South London restaurant Trivet prepares a Hot Tongue Bun, a hot cow’s tongue served on a bun with mayo and pickles.Passing that along to his customers has allowed Morty & Bob’s to grow from a grilled-cheese market stall in east London to three dine-in locations that riff on Montreal staples, plus a chicken schnitzel with Corn Flake crust his grandmother pioneered.

“Montreal chefs are just unapologetically true to themselves,” he says. “The French are so steeped in tradition. Montreal is a baby in comparison, with younger chefs that aren’t bound by doing things in a certain way. They say, ‘I respect this, but what if I do it like this?’ Some of the best chefs in London right now are doing versions of that.”A Montreal-style poutine on the menu at The Maine, an ambitious brasserie in a bijou Mayfair location in an ornate dining room.

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