In this recipe from our cookbook “ Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year,” a heady spice mixture goes onto the beef just before cooking, with more sprinkled on at the end. This creates layers of flavor you don’t get from skewers that are merely marinated and grilled.
While the meat is seasoned, the cumin, fennel and tingly Sichuan peppercorns are toasted until fragrant, then coarsely ground and combined with salt. A portion of the mixture is set aside, and the remainder is sprinkled over both sides of the meat and patted gently onto the surface to help it adhere.
To make lamb skewers instead of beef, called yang rou chuan, substitute boneless lamb shoulder or leg; be sure to slice the meat against the grain. Though these typically are enjoyed as a snack, if served with some steamed rice and stir-fried vegetables, the skewers make a satisfying dinner.
Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for direct, high-heat cooking. For a charcoal grill, ignite a large chimney of coals and let burn until lightly ashed over, then distribute the coals evenly over one side of the grill bed; open the bottom grill vents and the lid vent. For a gas grill, turn all burners to high. Heat the grill, covered, for 10 to 15 minutes, then clean and oil the cooking grate.
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